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How to Sharpen a Knife With a Diamond File (Field Guide for Beginners)


Sharpening your survival knife is a very simple task and one that will pay dividends. A sharp knife makes every outdoor task easier (at least the ones you need a knife for. A diamond file gives you a simple, reliable way to sharpen your knife anywhere, even with zero prior experience. If you can hold a steady angle, you can sharpen your blade. This guide walks you through the exact process we teach in our classes and in the video below.


A black ESEE knife with a grey handle lies on textured wood. Visible text: "ESEE-4" and "ESEE". Dark, rugged outdoor setting.
ESEE 4 - My favorite field knife

Jump Ahead




Introduction


If you want to keep your gear working for you, this method is perfect for any skill level and will keep your blades sharp. It works whether you are at home or out in the field and need a quick touch-up. The diamond file does most of the work, so there is no need to muscle anything. Your only job is to keep a steady angle and follow each step. Pro tip: A quick tune-up after each use saves time at the end of a trip and keeps your blade in top shape. Happy sharpening.


Watch the Full Tutorial


How to Sharpen Your Knife

Gear You Need


This is a gear-based tutorial, so here is everything you need up front.


Quick Note: Our gear links are Amazon affiliate links. If you pick up a tool through one of them, it helps support our knife-sharpening habit at no extra cost to you. Thanks for keeping the adventure going.


Why a Diamond File Works Well

So why use a diamond file? They have a few advantages and help you avoid a few common pitfalls compared to other sharpening tools. Diamond files work on almost every blade or tool you will come across. They wear evenly, unless they are used incorrectly, and they do not require water or oil. They stay flat, which makes it much easier to match your angle. They also work in wet, cold, humid, or hot environments. All of this makes a diamond file one of the most dependable sharpening tools you can carry in the field.


Two foldable knife sharpeners with orange and black handles, featuring a dotted metallic surface, overlap each other on a white background.
Diamond File

Understanding the Bevel


The bevel is the flat angled surface at the edge of your blade. This is the only part you are actually sharpening.


Different tools use different bevel angles:

  • Small carving tools use steeper angles.

  • Most survival knives use a medium angle.

  • Axes and choppers use shallower angles.


Your goal is not precision to the degree. It is consistency. Matching the angle each stroke is what creates a sharp edge.


Knife with black handle on beige background shows bevel angles: steep 17°, medium 22°, shallow 30°, indicated by red arrows.
Optimal Bevel Angles

How to Sharpen a Knife: Step-by-step

These steps follow the same order as the video to keep everything consistent.


Step 1. Stabilize the Knife

Brace the knife against a table edge or clamp it lightly. Keep your guiding hand behind the edge for safety.


Step 2. Color the Bevel (Optional) Use a marker to fully color the bevel on both sides of the blade. When you start sharpening, this gives you instant and easy-to-see visual feedback. It is not required, but it helps a ton, especially when you are just getting started.


Knife on wooden surface with "BUCK" on blade, numbers 1 to 3 marked in blue. Handle has dark wavy pattern.
Color and divide your bevel into sections like this

Step 3. Match the Factory Angle

Start with the 400-grit side of the file.

Place the file on the bevel and tilt until it sits flush on the colored area.


The marker tells you what is happening:

  • If color rubs off evenly, your angle is correct.

  • If color stays on the top side, you are too steep.

  • If color stays near the cutting edge, you are too shallow.


Step 4. Push the File Into the Edge

Push the file toward the cutting edge instead of dragging away from it.

Dragging away builds a burr that just flips back and forth and dulls quickly.


Use smooth, controlled strokes with light to moderate pressure.


Knife blade and sharpening stone on a wooden surface. "Direction of filing" text with red arrow pointing left. Blade marked "BUCK".
File into the blade

Step 5. Keep the File Perpendicular to the Edge

As the blade curves near the tip, rotate the file so it stays perpendicular to that curve. If you keep the file straight while the blade curves, the tip will never sharpen properly.



Step 6. Work in Three Zones

Mentally divide the blade into three zones.


  1. Tip

  2. Middle

  3. Heel


Work each zone with the same angle and steady movement. This breaks the process into manageable parts and avoids uneven sharpening.


Step 7. Make Three Passes Per Side

Sharpen the entire first side of the blade with three full passes.

Flip the blade and make three matching passes on the second side.


Step 8. Check the Marker

If the bevel is clean and free of color, your angle is correct.

If not, adjust your angle and try again.


Whiteboard with text "All marker removed, Proper Angle," red circle highlighting a clean wooden edge against a brown floor background.
Proper Angle
Close-up of a wooden surface with text overlay: "Marker Only Removed on Body Side" and "Too Steep." Red circle highlights a blue line.
Too Steep
Knife blade on wooden surface with a red circled area. Text reads: "Marker Only Removed on Blade Side = Too Shallow."
Too Shallow

Step 9. Switch to 600 Grit for Finishing

Make a few gentle strokes on each side using the fine grit.

You are not shaping the bevel here. You are polishing it and removing any micro burrs.


Step 10. Clean and Oil the Blade

Use rubbing alcohol to remove any remaining marker.

Add a thin coat of oil to protect the steel from moisture.


How to Test Sharpness


Paper test:

If the blade slices cleanly, it is sharp.

If it snags, correct that zone.


Cordage test:

If the blade slides instead of biting, sharpen more.


Light reflection:

A sharp edge will not reflect light.

Shiny spots show where the edge is still dull.


Common Mistakes


  • Changing your angle while you sharpen

  • Pulling the file away from the blade

  • Using too much/not enough pressure

  • Forgetting to rotate at the curve

  • Over-sharpening one side and ignoring the other


Consistency prevents almost all sharpening issues.

Consistent angle labeled as good and changing angle labeled as bad on a textured beige background with bold black text.
Cross section of your bevel - consistent vs inconsistent angle

Field Sharpening vs At-Home Sharpening

You should get your blades into top condition while you are at home. Take the time to set a solid angle and make them razor sharp. That way, when you are in the field, you only need a few quick touch-ups to keep everything performing


Maintenance Tips


  1. Wipe the blade after use.

  2. Dry it before sheathing.

  3. Oil lightly to prevent rust, especially in humid environments.

  4. Touch up regularly rather than waiting until the blade becomes noticeably dull.


Make this a habit not a chore and your blades will always preform.



Want More?

If you found this guide helpful, there’s plenty more to learn. Subscribe to our Six Point Survival Newsletter for monthly tips and field-tested gear advice, and check out our YouTube channel for real-world demos and survival lessons.


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TLDR

Color the bevel.

Match the factory angle.

Push the file into the edge.

Rotate the file as the blade curves.

Three passes per side on 400.

Light cleanup passes on 600.

Wipe, oil, and you are done.



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